Since his debut at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche hasn’t exactly been universally adored. Much of the fashion set has decided to be faithful widows of his predecessor, Hedi Slimane. But starting last season, the Belgian has managed to establish an identity far from the skinny rock look previously associated with the brand. The evidence of real talent, his fall collection is even better, with modern tailoring ideas (Van Assche is a champion of one of the season’s biggest trends, the double jacket), perfect proportions and an updated silhouette. Cropped pants and puffy coats echo Yohji Yamamoto in his heyday, a statement of fresh elegance.