At Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati appears obsessed with renewing the meaning of elegance. Sometimes it seems to be an effortless job, other times it looks like a very difficult path to follow. His fall men’s collection—prefaced by a Bruce Weber-directed, thus sexually charged, seven-minute video—was a mix of both, a black and gray opus dedicated to refinement, with wide trousers, opulent coats and formal tailoring. But his experiments with sportswear, such as bomber jackets or his even stranger 70s-style overalls, à la Star Trek, are not the best part of the cake.