By the time Rick Owens’ army of models came out for the finale, with Mott the Hoople’s dramatic Through the Looking Glass on the soundtrack, you knew that the designer had reached a new height in his ever-soaring career. The show promoted a raw refinement, with peak-shouldered jackets, shimmering tweedy fabrics, funnel-collared tops and leather butcher’s gloves. With its soft, earthy tones and opulent use of furs and hides, the modern-meets-savage collection made me think about the house of Hermes and what it would look like if it wooed an avant audience.