At Celine, designer Phoebe Philo was awaited like the Messiah. And she came. For years, after the departures of Michael Kors and Ivana Omazic, the brand was a kind of no-man’s land on the LVMH map. Rumors abounded that it could soon be on the chopping block. Except for a few It bags (and really, who isn’t able to produce those by now?), the label just seemed to make product after bourgeois product for an aging clientele. So while the freshly appointed British designer might not have the star power of John Galliano or Alexander McQueen, we still remember her time at Chloé with fondness. It was a fantastic era, which she channeled for Celine’s spring collection. Modern and minimal, with great little skirts in leather, nude-colored bodysuits and flared pants, the show’s good taste was indisputable. No visual gimmickry, just a resounding success—enough to forget all about those dead-weight years.

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