For a while now, rumors have been flying that Martin is no longer the designer at his namesake label. Now, I’m not one to speculate, but after the spring collection, that could well be the case. Is the Margiela one for one-trick-pony stunts? Hope not. Would Margiela put paper on the runway with no broader explanation as to why? I wouldn’t think so. Would we sit in a sweltering room and not complain (much) if we didn’t think we were watching a conceptual genius at work? Work that out for yourselves. If “Margiela” is to be believed, pants aren’t relevant at all next season. No, knickers are all you’ll be needing, alongside Palm Beach-printed paper dresses, ribbon and rope dresses, mohair swimwear (the beach wouldn’t be the same without it) and thigh-high paper boots. Now, as per with MM, once it hits the shops we may all be clamoring for the label’s cleverly constructed dresses, knits and mohair, but after that show, all everyone was clamoring for was the door and some fresh air.