The skinny-heel pushback is well underway. The latest evidence comes from Acne Studios, whose plus-size women's Quad shoe for fall takes the best of the traditional oxford and adds an enlarged cube toe, as well as a chunky sole, for beautiful-the-way-I-am appeal. Available in white on white, black on white, and brown camo on black.
$600 at Acne Studios stores and acnestudios.com
Except for a short gap between 2011 and 2013, Raf Simons has been going at it for Fred Perry, tweaking the sporty label's signatures to his own off-kilter ends. Fall 2014 is their 10th collection, a study in artful patch and pocket placement, Haçienda-inspired diagonal stripes (made famous by Peter Saville), and color-blocked knits.
One of the more statement pieces is the diamond-quilted Raf bomber in green, applied with patches of diagonal striped fabric. Other key pieces include the optical-stripe Raf shirt, the two-button Raf sweat, and the lace-knit Raf sweater — in autumnal shades of royal purple, burgundy, pine green, navy, and Halloween orange.
$160 - $495 in Fred Perry Laurel Wreath shops and Fred Perry
Whether named after the editor-in-chief of French Vogue or the sexually adventurous fictional character of 1970s French cinema, Saint Laurent's Emmanuelle bag aims to please. New for pre-fall and available in leather or croc, the bag features a roomy bucket shape that can accommodate nearly any apparatus while the optional suede fringe shimmies and teases.
$1990 - $2150 at YSL.com and Saint Laurent Boutiques
The ongoing Raf Simons for Adidas shoe collaboration seems to be picking up speed. For spring 2015, Simons' beloved staples for the brand — Response Trail 2, Ozweego 2, Bounce — are expanded with new hues and fabrics; his color experiments on the Stan Smith are pushed further; he's introduced two raver models, the Platform Strap and the Platform Lace, that illuminate with each step; and he's interpreted the cult-adored Adilette with three extreme new versions with elevated platforms. All the racy new kicks, priced from $195 to $1,120, can be found at Adidas Icon stores in London, Paris, Berlin and select boutiques around the world beginning mid-February.
In other Raf Simons news, his fall 14 men's collection, made in partnership with the artist and longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby, is getting its own e-store. Open only for the summer, Inthenameof.be will close September 1. After that, a clubby pop-up will launch at 16 Lange Gasthuisstraat, Antwerp, open only on weekends and rotating its merch each week through the end date of October 13.
Rick Owens and Adidas have again teamed up on a capsule of pupil-dilating, mind-twitching men's shoes, three new styles introduced on the designer's spring 2015 runway. The first is based on the loose boxing silhouette, employing covered lacing and Adidas' new Spring Blade tooling on the sole — basically, a row of suspension rubber cantilevers that give height, buoyancy, and much foot interest to the wearer. The second model brings the same Spring Blade sole to a more traditional track shoe, while the shell-toe boot — the "Superstar" boot — recalls the classic Adidas shape, here recast in calf stretch-leather.
$666 - $938 at Rick Owens and Adidas stores, beginning mid-January 2015
Want to join in the colorful sneaker craze but don't want the entire color spectrum on your feet? Not a problem. Lanvin men's designer Lucas Ossendrijver stays grounded with his new sneakers for the house, choosing a respectable palette of earthy shades with barely a touch of iridescence. Plus, made of calf-skin and nubuck, they won't fall apart immediately after purchase, but will wear naturally with time.
$840 at Lanvin stores and online
Hats are wonderful things. They shade your eyes when sunglasses aren't enough, they shield your face when you've forgotten your umbrella, and they divert people's attention on those days you couldn't be bothered to do anything with your hair. There's just one problem with hats in the summer — they get unbearably hot. So, here are an assortment of summer hats whose makers have shown mercy and given some thought to wicking away heat and sweat...
Junya Watanabe trilby
$491 at Colette
Larose Paris X White Mountaineering cap
$170 at Colette
Lanvin straw fedora
$350 at Mr. Porter
Rag & Bone fedora
$175 at Barneys
Just Don It python cap
$695 ar Barneys
Relatively quiet as of late, artist Terence Koh — he of gold-plated feces, piano design for Lady Gaga and Elton John, and Chinese baby adoption — has teamed up with Louis Vuitton on a limited-edition collection sold exclusively at Dover Street Market Ginza. The bare-bones three-piece capsule includes a nautical striped T-shirt, a long-sleeved blue shirt, and a non-leather biker jacket.
Koh’s artistic embroideries include a narwhal (that whale with a crazy tusk that looks like a unicorn's horn), a pair of rabbits, and an intricate and unexplained double-oval design on the back of the biker jacket.
At Dover Street Market Ginza on June 6, 2014
British artist-designer Patrick Ian Hartley makes what he calls "face corsets," an apt descriptor for what's essentially custom neck art in carefully molded leather, silk, and PVC — a lot of PVC. And you thought 17th-century ruffs were the height of neck art.
Naturally, Lady Gaga is a client, as well as heaps of other musicians looking for something a little exotic to wear in their music videos. Haute magazines, too, are stampeding to Hartley's studio, hunting for that certain something to help their editorials stand out — literally stand out, like the partial exoskeletons you see here. They may look uncomfortable, but stiletto heels probably also looked uncomfortable, before they were everywhere.