Guess Who's Coming to Art Basel: SANKUANZ

Casa de Costa isn't one to sit on the sidelines. The New York gallery will make its Art Basel presence known — via Miami Arts Week — with something no one else has: SANKUANZ. Designed by Zhe Shangguan, the provocative Shanghai men's label is straight-up "bonkers," a term used by the gallery.

To wit, for SANKUANZ's last outing (spring '15 in London), Shangguan sent enormous Popeye-like plastic hands down the runway, citing inspiration ranging from boxing and Russian prisoners to teenage street style and Japanese manga — hence the models' preternaturally large eyes.

"This is a revolutionary time for art, culture, and fashion in China," says the gallery, "and SANKUANZ is at the center of it all."


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Dec 02, 2014 20:34:00
Christian Lacroix for the Musée Cognacq-Jay

Christian Lacroix's Great Art Jumble

Since shuttering his house in 2009, Christian Lacroix seems to have found his next act by returning to his first love, museum curation. At the behest of the Musée Cognacq-Jay in Paris, the couturier has reimagined the institution's impressive 18th-century permanent collection by way of juxtaposition with contemporary pieces. He's invited more than 40 artists to reflect upon Ernest Cognacq’s acquisitions and loan pieces that either work in concert with or contrast to them, thereby deepening a non-chronological understanding of the Age of Enlightenment and its similarities with our own Information Age.

Lumières: Carte Blanche à Christian Lacroix, November 19, 2014 – April 19, 2015, Musée Cognacq-Jay, Paris

Christian Lacroix for the Musée Cognacq-Jay

Christian Lacroix for the Musée Cognacq-Jay

Christian Lacroix for the Musée Cognacq-Jay

Christian Lacroix for the Musée Cognacq-Jay

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Nov 26, 2014 10:59:00
Guy Bourdin

Guy Bourdin, One of the Photographic Greats of the 20th Century, Gets a Major Retrospective

French photographer Guy Bourdin's influence on fashion imagery is almost impossible to overstate. His darkly humorous, color-drenched, proto-Pop magazine images throughout much of the 20th century have given rise to David LaChapelle, Nick Knight, Tim Walker, and a host of similarly high-impact lensmen for whom the product is secondary to story. Yet during his lifetime he never sought fame or fortune, almost to a pathological degree. Thus there have been very few books and exhibits devoted to his oeuvre.

So it's with intense anticipation that the Somerset House will soon stage a major retrospective, in fact the UK's largest exhibition of his work to date. Over 100 images and previously unseen material will go on view, spanning his 40-year career, which started as Man Ray’s protégé and including his seminal work for Vogue Paris in particular, as well as campaigns for Charles Jourdan, Chanel, Issey Miyake, Ungaro, and Versace. This is complemented by Polaroid test shots, contact sheets, and transparencies, as well as rarely seen Super-8 films he shot on set.

Guy Bourdin: Image-Maker, November 27, 2014 – March 15, 2015, Somerset House, London

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Nov 25, 2014 09:30:00
Tilda Swinton in Cloakroom, photo ©

An Annual Happening, Tilda Swinton Blends Performance Art and Fashion

Tilda Swinton is nothing if not a creature of curiosity and study. Last night, beginning a week-long performative collaboration with fashion curator Olivier Saillard, director of Palais Galliera in Paris, the actress communed with the jackets and coats left for her by the audience before taking their seats. Silently, she gently stroked, folded, cradled, and crawled under or laid beside them for nearly an hour, contemplating their stories and channeling their "spirits," she said later.

Handling each piece with forensic care, Swinton would occasionally leave a keepsake. These included a scented envelope in a pocket, a lipstick-blotted tissue in a biker jacket, and a strand of her hair on a lapel. She thereby insinuated a little of herself in the item's life story, to the delight of the objects' owners, who included Alber Elbaz, Pierre Bergé, Charlotte Rampling, Haider Ackermann, Christian Lacroix, and Stella Tennant.

Cloakroom is the latest performance conceived by Swinton and Saillard as part of the annual Festival d’Automne in Paris. Last year their performance, Eternity Dress, consisted of Saillard measuring the actress onstage and the two constructing a garment for her to wear on the spot. In the Impossible Wardrobe the year before that, Swinton donned several items of historical dress — sometimes centuries old — from the Palais Galliera’s archives.

Cloakroom — Vestiaire Obligatoire, November 22-29, 2014, Palais Galliera, 10 avenue Pierre, Paris

Nov 25, 2014 08:37:00
US Vogue, Monaco, 1996 © Helmut Newton Estate

Helmut Newton's Foundation to Exhibit a Major Retrospective

Newton nuts, rejoice! When the photographic master established his foundation in Berlin a decade ago, he donated several hundred original photographs for the foundation's permanent collection. Later this month, for its tenth anniversary, the Helmut Newton Foundation will exhibit roughly 200 of them, in all their glorious sensuality and dramatic seductiveness.

Organized by the three main genres of Newton's oeuvre — portraits, nudes, fashion — the works on display will consist of personalities Catherine Deneuve, David Bowie, and Karl Lagerfeld, as well as magazine editorials primarily from the 1970s and 1980s. The much-anticipated nudes, meanwhile, hail from a specific time and place: 1980 Paris. These Big Nudes, as they're affectionately called, are considered the best examples of the artist's renowned erotic-urban style. Some of them will be life-sized, for the full uncensored, unapologetic Newton experience.

Permanent Loan Selection, Nov 27, 2014 - May 17, 2015, Helmut Newton Foundation, Jebensstrasse 2, Berlin

Helmut Newton, David Lynch and Isabella Rossellini, Los Angeles, 1983 © Helmut Newton Estate

Helmut Newton, Catherine Deneuve for a Photo-Essay in Nouvel Observateur, Paris, 1983 © Helmut Newton Estate

Helmut Newton, David Bowie, Monte Carlo, 1983 © Helmut Newton Estate

Helmut Newton, Arielle After a Haircut, Paris, 1982 © Helmut Newton Estate

Helmut Newton, Sigourney Weaver, Los Angeles, 1983 © Helmut Newton Estate

Nov 13, 2014 10:47:00
Kate Moss by Jurgen Ostarhild (1991)

Photos of Young Kate Moss to Go on View

Since her discovery in 1988, at 14, Kate Moss has become the world's ultimate fashion model, easily surviving any blight that's come her way, whether a drug scandal, body-image fury, or the obsolescence threatening her supermodel compatriots.

Later this month, an exhibition in Berlin will bring together early-90s portraits of the doe-eyed, baby-faced icon, when no one could have foreseen her global domination some 25 years later — and counting. Noticeably absent are her seminal photographs with Corinne Day, her earliest champion. Aside from that, the list of early adopters is fairly exhaustive: Albert Watson, Jurgen Ostarhild, Pamela Hanson, Michel Haddi, Marc Hispard, Roxanne Lowit, Satoshi Saikusa, and David Ross Elliott, who created Moss's first test shots.

Kate Moss: The Icon, November 28, 2014 - February 21, 2015, Galerie Hiltawsky, Berlin

Kate Moss by Jurgen Osterhild, Camber Sands, South England (1991)

Kate Moss by Albert Watson, Morocco (1993)

Kate Moss by Satoshi Saikusa

Kate Moss by Satoshi Saikusa

Nov 05, 2014 13:53:00
Picasso, 1957 (photo David Douglas Duncan)

Selfies and Studies: Pablo Picasso at Gagosian Gallery

It's no coincidence that the most famous artist of the 20th century, Pablo Picasso, was also its most photographed. The Spaniard himself used the medium extensively. You could say that, after painting and his many mistresses, it was a great passion of his. The Cubist took an enormous amount of photos, not only to create studies for artworks in other media, but also to court celebrity and document his colorful life and career.

This intricate relationship with the camera is the focus of a revealing retrospective at the redesigned Gagosian Gallery on 21st Street, in partnership with his grandson, Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, who only began exhibiting his collection of original Picassos (the largest in the world) in 2000. The show includes some 200 never-before-seen photographs taken by the artist, as well as related sculptures, paintings, drawings, and films spanning his sixty years of production. In addition, curator John Richardson — nonagenarian Picasso biographer and close friend of the family — was brought on board.

Films also played a central role in Picasso's life. He filmed home movies of his family and friends, and worked with celebrated filmmakers Luciano Emmer and Henri-Georges Clouzot to capture his artistic process, as well as Jean Cocteau, Cecil Beaton, Man Ray, and Lee Miller. The resulting body of photographs and films have left a legacy far richer than most dearly departed artists of the last century — exactly as Picasso intended.

Picasso and the Camera, October 28, 2014 – January 3, 2015, Gagosian Gallery, 522 W. 21st Street, NYC

Nov 03, 2014 14:24:00
HBA, spring 15

Hint Tip: Hood By Air at MoMA

Whatever humannequins are, they'll be at a Hood By Air "performance masquerading as a party" at MoMA, part of the museum's new PopRally program. The part-theater, part-virtual event builds on designer Shayne Oliver's spring 2015 shows in Paris and New York, the first and second parts, respectively, of his three-part Superego/Ego/Id series. To jog your memory, Superego was the collection held at the top of a disused glass office building, where seemingly every guest tweeted the spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower. Even by fashion standards, models looked aloof and detached as they rolled around in office chairs wearing deconstructed suits, platform boots, and executive-realness long hair. Maybe they're the same humannequins we'll see in Id at MoMA. Other performers include Boychild, Mykki Blanco, plus surprise guests. There may be no better way to celebrate Halloween.

October 30, 8:00 pm, $25 (includes open bar), MoMA, 11 W. 53 Street

Oct 24, 2014 18:14:00
Peter Marino, photo by Patrick McMullan

Fashion's Leather Daddy, Peter Marino, to Exhibit His Private Art Collection

You might wonder what sort of accoutrement a leather daddy, a term we use fondly, would collect and if that's something you really want to see. In the case of Peter Marino — that swaggering biker-clad bear of a designer and architect behind unexpectedly opulent boutiques for Chanel, Dior, and Louis Vuitton, among countless other projects, fashion and otherwise — the answers are: art and yes.

Beginning during Art Basel Miami, the Bass Museum of Art will present an exhibition exploring "the renowned American architect’s multifaceted relationship with art." Curated by the equally unorthodox Jérôme Sans, the show will address the intersection of Marino’s architectural designs and his private collection of modern and contemporary works by the likes of Pierpaolo Ferrari, Keith Haring, Damien Hirst, Thomas Houseago, Anselm Kiefer, Robert Mapplethorpe, Steven Meisel, Walter Pfeiffer, Richard Prince, Tom Sachs, Richard Serra, Christopher Wool, and Andy Warhol, a mentor of Marinos' from way back when.

In addition to his own recent series of large cast-bronze boxes, newly commissioned works by Guy Limone, Farhad Moshiri, Jean-Michel Othoniel and Erwin Wurm will also go on view, beginning with Gregor Hildebrandt's Orphische Schatten (Orphic Shadows). The site-specific installation employing hundreds of videotape strips culled from copies of Jean Cocteau’s classic film Orphée will guide visitors from room to room. The show ends with a recreation of Christophe Willibald Gluck’s contemporary opera Orfeo ed Euridice, a collaboration between Marino, his wife Jane Trapnell, the house of Christian Dior, Michal Rovner, and Francesco Clemente originally staged in Marino’s New York home in 2013.

One Way: Peter Marino, Dec 4, 2014 – Mar 29, 2015, Bass Museum of Art, Miami

Guy Limone, Red, Black and Grey-White Tapestry, 2014; Andy Warhol, Human Heart, circa 1979

Detail of Guy's Limone's Red, Black and Grey-White Tapestry

Leather Biker Jacket, 2010 (left: Ronnie Cutrone, middle: Lee Quinones, right: Nate Lowman)

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Oct 07, 2014 15:29:00

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