Marc Jacobs has always done adolescence very well, and his Marc by Marc Jacobs men's spring 2015 collection was no exception. Co-designed by Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier, the show plunged a relaxed Polynesian vibe, with its "surf punk" aesthetic and recurring "angry tiki man" graphic. (Read our complete show review at Style.com)
The collection video went a decidedly more languid direction, emphasizing an artfully bored look, the well-practiced kind so often on display at today's music festivals. You can practically hear what they think: Will the band ever start? Will the molly ever kick in? Will my celebrity girlfriend ever stop posing for any camera shoved in her face?...
Fun is the name of the game for MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti. It permeates every thread of the street-influenced Milan label, extending even to its extracurricular activities. Giorgetti's second and latest collaboration with Toilet Paper — the image-driven cult magazine by (former) artist Maurizio Cattelan and photographer Pierpaolo Ferrari — is so colorful, so bright, so pop that you might think you're in a Skittles commercial. "When Maurizio and Pierpaolo work," Giorgetti told Hint, "they are like two children. They get excited, they get thrilled, and they show a lot of passion for what they’re doing."
For the new collaboration, the threesome built upon the first, rounding out those sweatshirts with beachwear and bedwear splashed with prints, prints, and more prints, reinterpreted in acid colors. "When I saw the Toilet Paper image of the rose with an eye inside" says Giorgetti, "I thought there couldn’t be anything more MSGM than that." But after playing around some more, they added still more prints to the capsule. "The picture of the apple with the picnic tablecloth is colorful and nostalgic — perfect. Then I saw prints with the wings of birds — also perfect. Everything we do is fun. It should make you smile!"
Suzy Menkes seems to have done some harm when, in her review of Maison Martin Margiela's couture show in her new position as Vogue's International Editor, she revealed by name one of the collective's designers, even including a pic she took backstage. It was painful to read for anyone with knowledge of the house's strict code of anonymity, begun at its very founding by the highly reclusive Belgian designer. Clearly dismayed, the house issued the following statement...
“In light of the recent rumors regarding individual members of our design team, we ask you to remember that the long-standing communication policy of the Maison has not changed and that MMM does not communicate on any individual member of its collective, as our work is done by a team and is credited only to this same collective. This is our official spokespeople policy, and it remains our only comment on this subject.”
The Met's Costume Institute, ushering in Halloween and perhaps nodding to the gothic drama of its own Alexander McQueen show, has announced a fall exhibition exploring mourning fashions in the century between 1815 and 1915 — an epoch associated with the Industrial Revolution, the advent of photography, and chaste Victorian standards.
“The veiled widow could elicit sympathy as well as predatory male advances," said curator Harold Koda, who's pulling primarily from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection. "As a woman of sexual experience without marital constraints, she was often imagined as a potential threat to the social order.” Most often dictated by sitting royals (i.e. Queen Victoria), mourning attire and its cultural implications will be highlighted through the progression of appropriate fabrics and the introduction of shades of gray and mauve.
Death Becomes Her is the Costume Institute’s first fall exhibition in seven years, a return to two special exhibitions a year: a major spring show and a smaller fall show. Approximately 30 ensembles, many of which are being exhibited for the first time, will reveal the impact of high-fashion standards on the sartorial dictates of bereavement rituals as they evolved over a century.
Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire, October 21 - February 1, 2015, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Anna Wintour Costume Center
Elie Top, Lanvin's jewelry designer extraordinaire, has announced he's starting a line of his own. Calling it Joaillerie de Haute Fantaisie, he seems to be going a step beyond the baroque eclecticism that has brought him accolade after accolade at Lanvin, where he'll remain.
Top began his career in jewelry design in 1997, working with Loulou de la Falaise at Yves Saint Laurent and collaborating closely with Alber Elbaz, the house's creative director before Tom Ford arrived. It was Elbaz who pushed Top, an illustrator at the time, to start thinking about jewelry. When Elbaz became creative director of Lanvin, he asked Top to head up jewelry design at the maison.
"It’s easy to get caught up in the design itself and forget reality," Top once told us in an interview. "There’s a lot of economy in getting just the right line." How he'll reconcile that sense of minimalism with his gift for eccentricity will be closely watched at the Paris couture collections in January, when the line will be unveiled.
Designed by lions and tigers and bears, oh my! To help raise money to renovate a zoo in Hitachi, Japan, admirers of the animals (particularly of the sharp-toothed predator kind) have launched Zoo Jeans, using denim gnawed and mauled — aka distressed — by the zoo's residents. Jeanius! Like something out of Rei Kawakubo's wild imagination....
There's no telling what you're up to right now, Courtney, on your 50th birthday. 50th! But we're pretty sure you'll make it known soon enough. Judging from history, it's probably something highly debauched and loads of fun — the stuff of legend. Nothing but the best on this crazy milestone. Did you ever think you'd make it to half a century?
Although, judging from your restraint at Coachella, where a cigarette seemed to be the extent of your self-indulgence (and, surely it was a smokeless e-cigarette), maybe you're a changed woman. A new you! Come to think of it, you did seem fairly put-together at Life Ball last month. And there was your perfectly decent appearance at Nirvana's induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, where you were all but maternal with Lorde. Plus, you hugged Dave Grohl onstage! And who could forget your earnest attempt to spot the missing Malaysian plane?
So maybe we have it all wrong. Maybe, just maybe, the proverbial battle of good versus evil that has always raged in your head and weighed on your conscience, has finally been won. We'll side with your daughter, Frances Bean, whose sweet tweet today pretty much says it all. Whatever the case, happy 50th!