Couture & Beer at Raf Simons

Raf Simons returned to Paris this season after his hiatus in New York settling in to Calvin Klein, and took us somewhere we’d never been before — Montreuil, a leafy suburb full of artists’ studios and artisanal factories that work with businesses in the city. The venue had silver mannequins hung from the ceiling, some draped with T-shirting from the collection, and gaudy frames full of black-and-white grainy images of punks. They looked like Derek Ridgers’ British punks, languishing in a lo-fi Derek Jarman set.

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Jun 21, 2018 12:38:00
Walter Van Beirendonck, spring 2019

Peace of Work

National-flag patterning, peace signs, and more cryptic symbols, mixed with war-painted faces and skeletal cutouts, seemed to warn against nationalistic fervor at Walter Van Beirendonck, a recurring motif with the Belgian designer...

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Jun 20, 2018 16:10:00
Off-White, spring 2019

Cowabunga! at Off-White

Ahead of his Louis Vuitton men's debut, Virgil Abloh infused his Off-White collection with the sort of extreme 90s street vibe that has catapulted him to the top of his field, this time even baggier and with a nod to that iconic slacker of the decade, Bart Simpson...

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Jun 20, 2018 13:18:00
Loverboy, spring 2019

Self as Art at Loverboy

Charles Jeffrey presented his spring Loverboy collection today, a nod to London clubland and its more colorful, artful, binary-defying, queer-identifying denizens...

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Jun 11, 2018 17:00:00
Moschino resort 2019

Circus Act at Moschino

Having long humored his clownish tendencies, Jeremy Scott went full circus for his resort 2019 collection for Moschino, which he held in the capital of make-believe, Los Angeles...

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Jun 09, 2018 13:55:00
Comme des Garçons, fall 2018

Cakes & Cartoons at Comme des Garçons

Only Comme des Garçons could hold the room in total stillness for ten minutes, with only two high-powered photography lights inches above the runway. Everyone held their breath, arching their necks to see if the lights were moving infinitesimally, or if we were, like Vladimir and Estragon in Samuel Beckett’s groundbreaking play Waiting for Godot, simply waiting. The second people’s attention span broke and they began to talk, the music started and the lights headed up to the ceiling.

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Mar 03, 2018 13:43:00
Yohji Yamamoto, fall 2018

Sartorial Cubism at Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto had some rare words to say before the show today, in the form of a small paper included with the invitation — which was, incidentally, a glittery mirrored compact pendant. It featured a discreet section of a nude female body, with the simple text: “Hommage 1. M. Cubisme 2. Mon cher Azzedine.” And the show was exactly that — something that, in the wrong hands, could have been a terrible failure, but in the masterful hands of Yamamoto, was mesmerizing.

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Mar 02, 2018 19:16:00
Dries Van Noten, fall 2018

Doodle Art at Dries Van Noten

The invitation handwritten in blue biro, or ballpoint pen, led us to the sumptuous Hotel de Ville in Paris’ fourth arrondissement. This clash of down-to-earth and neo-Renaissance set the scene for the show, which opened to the strains of Deep Purple’s art-rock classic, Child in Time: “Sweet child in time, you'll see the line, line that's drawn between good and bad.” But of course, with Dries Van Noten, there is no good and bad, only damn good.

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Feb 28, 2018 17:10:00
Thom Browne, fall 2018

Snow-Stopper at Thom Browne

As is his wont, Thom Browne wrapped his fall collection in an idiosyncratic, tongue-in-cheek mise en scène. This time it involved men in gray pajamas slipping into camping beds at the end of the show in a desolate, snow-blanketed landscape. Other men wearing white skirt suits and bags tucked them into bed sporting trompe l'oeil gray suits, adding to the eerie effect.

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Jan 21, 2018 22:32:00

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