When Rei Kawakubo deigns to send out polka dots or accordion pleats or tartans or hoodies, she does it with such tacit gusto that they become the most exquisite polka dots or accordion pleats or tartans or hoodies ever transferred from mind to matter, unlikely to be equaled anytime soon.
There’s always something a little hard to swallow in the whole art vs fashion debate. Fashion is an unashamed business (more and more as it goes faster and faster — until the wheels fall off) and art is always quick to veil its market associations in cerebral discourse. It comes across as trite in most circumstances when the two meet, but not in the assured hands of Yohji Yamamoto, who unabashedly walks his own path, slowly putting the art back into fashion.
At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson navigated a sea theme, albeit it highly abstracted and over-crafted. Against a video backdrop of men retrieving blue barrels bobbing on waves, he sent out a sandy palette, billowing sail-like shapes, long pirate sleeves, plundered gold jewelry, and what looked to be conch shells for necklaces.
While still anonymously designed, Maison Margiela's more accessible sister line MM6 embraced a new warmth and charm with nods to internet memes (who can resist the all-powerful cat video?) and exaggerated slouch, as well as humorous takes on the big-shouldered rugby uniform and biker jacket...
Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver has all kinds of collaborations up his deconstructed sleeve, with Hustler and PornHub, as well as his own music label, Wench. The overt, ostentatious branding was off the charts at his spring show today, even by HBA's standards — an apparent, and devilish, send-up of Wall Street types and their hedge-fund-fueled rampages.