Yohji Yamamoto, fall 2018

Sartorial Cubism at Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto had some rare words to say before the show today, in the form of a small paper included with the invitation — which was, incidentally, a glittery mirrored compact pendant. It featured a discreet section of a nude female body, with the simple text: “Hommage 1. M. Cubisme 2. Mon cher Azzedine.” And the show was exactly that — something that, in the wrong hands, could have been a terrible failure, but in the masterful hands of Yamamoto, was mesmerizing.

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Mar 02, 2018 19:16:00
Dries Van Noten, fall 2018

Doodle Art at Dries Van Noten

The invitation handwritten in blue biro, or ballpoint pen, led us to the sumptuous Hotel de Ville in Paris’ fourth arrondissement. This clash of down-to-earth and neo-Renaissance set the scene for the show, which opened to the strains of Deep Purple’s art-rock classic, Child in Time: “Sweet child in time, you'll see the line, line that's drawn between good and bad.” But of course, with Dries Van Noten, there is no good and bad, only damn good.

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Feb 28, 2018 17:10:00
Thom Browne, fall 2018

Snow-Stopper at Thom Browne

As is his wont, Thom Browne wrapped his fall collection in an idiosyncratic, tongue-in-cheek mise en scène. This time it involved men in gray pajamas slipping into camping beds at the end of the show in a desolate, snow-blanketed landscape. Other men wearing white skirt suits and bags tucked them into bed sporting trompe l'oeil gray suits, adding to the eerie effect.

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Jan 21, 2018 22:32:00
Kenzo, fall 2018

Camera-Ready at Kenzo

The scene was set on arrival at the venue for Kenzo’s fall 2018 show. Several film sets were scattered around the vast show space, replete with cut-in-half cars, half dining tables, sliced baths, and film-quality lighting and camera rigs. We thought before the show that this was to be the setting for the finale, where models would sit afterwards so the audience could meander around and snap photos for their Instagrams. We couldn’t have been more wrong.

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Jan 21, 2018 19:11:00
Comme des Garçons, fall 2018

Walking the Dinosaur

There was something carefree about the boys on Comme des Garçons’ runway today. The show opened with a deconstructed tailored jacket, paired with a flowing superhero print trouser, and topped with a giant dinosaur head mask. It was like watching young boys playing dress up, still in their pajamas, but being forced to go outside by their parents.

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Jan 20, 2018 09:14:00
Junya Watanabe, fall 2018

Tunnel Vision at Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe took us to a tunnel off the beaten track in Paris this morning, which, for those without cars, involved a hike through the lesser known roads, that were familiar nonetheless through their mundanity. His dedicated followers had no qualms crossing city early in the morning in the rain.

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Jan 19, 2018 22:42:00
Rick Owens, fall 2018

Rock Solid at Rick Owens

Confronted with bureaucratic and logistical limitations in the run-up to his exhibit in Milan, Rick Owens decided to channel the angst he felt into his fall men's collection. And he titled it Sisyphus, after the king in Greek mythology whose punishment for a lifetime of hubris was the eternal uphill pushing of a boulder.

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Jan 19, 2018 12:45:00
Dries Van Noten, fall 2018

Mad for Marble at Dries Van Noten

A stripped-down, cover version of Underworld’s classic banger Born Slippy, by Get Well Soon, punctuated the Dries Van Noten menswear show today in the former sorting office of the French Post and Customs and Excise. Van Noten has a knack for finding incredible venues in the center of Paris that no one has ever used before and this was no exception.

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Jan 19, 2018 11:13:00
Yohji Yamamoto, fall 2018

Pushing Boundaries at Yohji Yamamoto

The invitation was giving nothing away, in true Yohji style. It was an orange cardboard envelope with an illustration of samurai fighting dragons and a single sheet of black paper in between. Black on the inside? Orange is the new black? Or, simply the king of black saying again, “I don’t bother you — don’t bother me.”

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Jan 18, 2018 18:38:00

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