Comme des Garçons spring 2017

Big Picture: Comme des Garçons Spring 2017

When Rei Kawakubo deigns to send out polka dots or accordion pleats or tartans or hoodies, she does it with such tacit gusto that they become the most exquisite polka dots or accordion pleats or tartans or hoodies ever transferred from mind to matter, unlikely to be equaled anytime soon.

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Oct 01, 2016 13:28:00
Yohji Yamamoto spring 17

The Art of Fashion: Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017

There’s always something a little hard to swallow in the whole art vs fashion debate. Fashion is an unashamed business (more and more as it goes faster and faster — until the wheels fall off) and art is always quick to veil its market associations in cerebral discourse. It comes across as trite in most circumstances when the two meet, but not in the assured hands of Yohji Yamamoto, who unabashedly walks his own path, slowly putting the art back into fashion.

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Oct 01, 2016 13:33:00
Loewe spring 17

Out to Sea: Loewe Spring 2017

At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson navigated a sea theme, albeit it highly abstracted and over-crafted. Against a video backdrop of men retrieving blue barrels bobbing on waves, he sent out a sandy palette, billowing sail-like shapes, long pirate sleeves, plundered gold jewelry, and what looked to be conch shells for necklaces.

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Sep 30, 2016 07:38:00
Jacquemus spring 2017

Jacquemus Spring 2017

A bold polka-dot V-neck blouse worn with a wide red sash over skinny pants, with flat, wide-brimmed straw hats. Huge round buttons closing jackers. A frilly long skirt revealing one leg. White blouses with bouffant sleeves.

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Sep 28, 2016 14:24:00
Saint Laurent spring 2017

Gaudy & Nice: Saint Laurent Spring 2017

If some of the styles in Anthony Vaccarello's debut for Saint Laurent looked dated, that was the point. He took Monsieur's evolving friendship with Paloma Picasso as his inspiration, giving it a contemporary twist.

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Sep 27, 2016 06:42:00
Gucci, spring 17

Festive & Fearless: Gucci Spring 2017

No motif was left behind today at Gucci, a festive start to the Milan collections. Alessandro Michele rounded up his usual feast for the eyes, delivering his signature jumble of modern eccentrics and mismatched misfits...

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Sep 21, 2016 11:13:00
MM6 Maison Margiela spring 17

Warm and Fuzzy: MM6 Maison Margiela

While still anonymously designed, Maison Margiela's more accessible sister line MM6 embraced a new warmth and charm with nods to internet memes (who can resist the all-powerful cat video?) and exaggerated slouch, as well as humorous takes on the big-shouldered rugby uniform and biker jacket...

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Sep 19, 2016 10:25:00
Thom Browne spring 17

They Feel Pretty: Thom Browne Spring 2017

Channeling an overly festive spirit for spring, Thom Browne showed a blindingly saccharine, gobsmackingly sappy ode to joy, not unlike a Stephen Sondheim ditty — starting with a disco ball as a dog head worn as a hat.

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Sep 12, 2016 22:06:00
Hood By Air spring 17

Wall Street Hustle: Hood By Air Spring 2017

Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver has all kinds of collaborations up his deconstructed sleeve, with Hustler and PornHub, as well as his own music label, Wench. The overt, ostentatious branding was off the charts at his spring show today, even by HBA's standards — an apparent, and devilish, send-up of Wall Street types and their hedge-fund-fueled rampages.

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Sep 11, 2016 23:55:00

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