Trench Quench at Junya Watanabe

The invitation was made of natural cardboard with words screen-printed in neon pink. A crafty reveal for the collection that almost uniformly followed this mantra, playing a balancing game between beige trench-coating and neon sportswear. Watanabe seems to set himself stringent limits before beginning to design a new collection, and then uses those constraints to test his own capabilities.

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Sep 28, 2019 17:53:00

Cover Girls at Yohji Yamamoto

The set design at Yohji consisted of a large swooping form covered in shiny black PVC, and a cascade-like drape of huge proportions in natural cotton canvas. It was like the body and the clothes on the runway — a sleek surface draped in fabric could easily describe half of the looks that were presented here.

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Sep 28, 2019 13:12:00

Boho Rhapsody at Celine

On arriving at the venue, it was completely impossible to enter due to the impenetrable volume of photographers and diehard fans. Once we finally pushed to the front of the crowd, we were once again held up as Carla Bruni arrived at that exact moment. The seas parted while she made her nonchalant entrance. She's one of those quintessential Parisiennes; she has long represented that blithe je ne sais quoi and seems to hold the keys to eternal French Girl style.

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Sep 27, 2019 18:40:00

Regal Roots at Rick Owens

The lack of a visual set on arrival at Rick Owens was a red herring. The pool in between Palais de Tokyo and the Musee d’Art Moderne had an array of pipes leading into it, and a peculiar sheen to the water. To open the show, smoke plumed out of the pipes before a black-robed procession walked poolside brandishing long poles. Those models dipped their poles into the water, rhythmically lifting up and pulling apart at the same time to produce a visual cacophony of bubbles. Ephemeral and unrelenting, floating and sliding, they provided an ethereal yet gentle backdrop to the collection.

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Sep 27, 2019 13:48:00

Lacroix Sweetie at Dries Van Noten

A rumor is lacking in foundation, a non-truth, but it can be the beginning of a great story. As it was today. What started out as a wild rumor quickly revealed itself with a red rose placed on each seat with a small card tied to it, hanging from a ribbon, that read: “DVN * XCLX." It was still cryptic, but to those that had already been questioning the handwriting on the invitation, the XCLX led them directly to Monsieur Christian Lacroix. One almost felt like jumping in the air, like Edina Monsoon in Absolutely Fabulous, screaming, “Lacroix, sweetie!”

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Sep 25, 2019 19:15:00

At Celine, the Designer Who Fell to Earth

A cube drifts down the runway, all four sides clad in theatrical red curtains, and the curtains slowly begin to rise, revealing a contraption made of metal and lights that holds a single model sitting in stasis waiting for his cue to get ‘out of the box.’ In his glittering diamanté-encrusted suit, he is reminiscent of David Bowie’s character Thomas Jerome Newton in Nicolas Roeg’s 1976 film ‘The Man Who Fell to Earth,’ who sits watching multiple screens at once, absorbing American culture.

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Jun 23, 2019 18:09:00

Ode to Orlando at Comme des Garçons

A runway show split over four acts, with four different lighting set-ups, four distinct soundtracks, and so much more. With Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons, we’re often left with little more than guesswork as we extract meaning, if any, so skillfully concealed. Today, however, we had a clue: she's recently been tapped to design the costumes for a new production of Virginia Woolf's gender-fluid, time-traveling classic Orlando at the Vienna State Opera — clearly on her mind at today's outing.

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Jun 22, 2019 15:05:00

Farm to Runway: Junya Watanabe

Opening to the farmyard sounds of a rooster crowing a wake-up call, Watanabe sent out his first look replete with an oversized tote bag stamped with the logo of the infamous London restaurant St John. The restaurant began life as the food side of Soho’s The French House, a bar frequented by the likes of Francis Bacon, Dylan Thomas and Lucian Freud, before moving into St John street in Clerkenwell near to Smithfield’s meat market. They specialize in ‘nose to tail’ cooking, using offal and parts of the animal that aren’t usually used.

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Jun 21, 2019 21:40:00

Giving Floral at Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten took us to a venue we had never been to before today, something very rare on the fashion week treadmill, and then turned our expectations upside down. It was composed of a series of vast white ‘perfect’ spaces for a gallery show. Or indeed, a runway show, that ended in a long intimate corridor bathed in hot pink light. And this was the master touch: taking us out of our comfort zone and dragging us into the unique world of his collection.

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Jun 21, 2019 18:55:00

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