Update 4/15/16: Grace Coddington will be signing bottles of her new perfume at Dover Street Market NY, April 20, 5-7 pm — her birthday.
Grace Coddington has unveiled her first creative endeavor since sending the fashion world into a tizzy when it was announced her title at Vogue, where she's worked for 28 years, was changing from creative director to creative editor-at-large — a fragrance collaboration with Comme des Garçons.
As if butt plugs, man buns, and fridge magnets weren't enough, Vladimir Putin has now inspired a limited-edition men's fragrance. And, despite that it's called Leaders and features a noble cameo of the ignoble Russian president with the words "Inspired by Vladimir Putin" in English, the scent is not intended as an ironic gesture, ironically. Rather, the medley of definitely-manly notes — e.g. bergamot, fir cones, mung beans — is a serious effort that'll set Russians back 6000 rubles ($83). In fact, perfumer Vladislav Rekunov wants to present a bottle to the despot himself. Of course he does.
For his second foray into fragrance — following his cuddly first scent in the shape of a teddy bear one year ago — Moschino’s irreverent, pop-loving creative director Jeremy Scott was feeling fresh. So much so that that's exactly what he named it, Fresh. Bottled in a clear flacon with a plastic spray cap, the aqua-blue juice is a tribute to ordinary glass cleaner, that most mundane of cleaning products.
Like the clothes on the runway, the beauty of Hood By Air's ss15 collection was an unsettling mix of horror show and baby doll. Snarling toothy mouthpieces, barrettes, and rhinestones spelling out gender-provocative words like "top" and "coy" combined to crypto-psycho effect.
"With HBA collections," says make-up artist Inge Grognard, "there is always something about gender. They are not only related to men or women, but suit both. The same goes for the make-up. There are notions of drag, trans, and gender, but it's the mix of how we do it that makes it fresh and now. The words we used are suggestive, slang in a way. Knowing about the origin of HBA, this is a kind of logical, no?"
New York Fashion Week may have ended, but it's only the beginning for the hair trends seen on (and off) the runway. Celebrating 15 seasons as the official hair care sponsor of NYFW, TRESemmé worked with top brands including Rachel Zoe, Banana Republic, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, BCBG, and Hervé Leger to create some of the must-do styles for spring. One style that looked great on the catwalks: bangs!
TRESemmé went backstage and spoke with stylist Tyler Laswell to get an exclusive tutorial on how to achieve great bangs, which is not as easy as it may seem. They mustn't be too short or too stiff, like schoolgirl bangs; they should be looser and sexier, like 70s bangs. Basically, they need to be bangin' bangs. "You want your bangs to behave, but you don't want them to be stiff," Tyler says in the following clip. Using TRESemmé Perfectly Undone brushable hairspray, he recommends blow-drying your bangs out, from damp to dry, then finishing it off with a mist of the hairspray, as such...
View this and more behind-the-scenes tips by visiting TRESemmé on Youtube
Post sponsored by TRESemmé
The Swedish perfumery Byredo has less to do with the whims of the fragrance market, or its trumped-up notions of fantasy, and more to do with the visceral quality of memories and ideas. For perfumer Ben Gorham, this is how it's been since launching the company ten years ago as an olfactory link to his native India. The unsolvable names of some of his scents are testament to this conceptual bent: Bibliothèque, Baudelaire, Inflorescence, and 1996, a collaboration with photographers Inez & Vinoodh.
But his latest eau de parfum may his most far-reaching yet, a centennial tribute to WWI nurses on the frontline, who soldiers called the 'roses of no man's land' for their compassionate bravery in the face of desolation. As such, Rose of No Man's Land, the fragrance, acts as a kind of soothing balm, a warming tonic — embodied in the Craig McDean-lensed ad campaign by model Freja Erichsen barely visible under a cascade of colorful letters. Notes of Turkish rose, pink peppercorn, white amber, raspberry blossom, and papyrus swirl together to form the scent's life-giving powers.
Azzedine Alaïa was nowhere to be seen at the press presentation for his first fragrance, Alaïa Paris, held this week in the legendary Marais building where he resides and crafts his iconic, shapely dresses — not to mention where countless celebrities and models have famously wined and dined.
But the nose, Marie Salamagne, was surrounded by journalists extolling the juice in a manner recalling the rapturous editors in the opening scene of William Klein's ironic film Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? For Salamagne, Alaïa Paris — made with Beaté Prestige — marks a milestone in her career, which also includes Kenzo’s now-defunct Tokyo scent.
She obviously enjoyed working the Alaïa way — long sessions ending with vodka and monthly meetings with the designer’s close collaborators, notably 10 Corso Como's Carla Sozzani and the photographer Paolo Roversi. "It was a lesson in creativity and excellence," she said at the presentation. "They are unfussy people, who say things very directly. And we laughed a lot. Mr. Alaïa loves teasing people."
Alaïa notoriously has a no-deadline mindset — he stages fashion shows as he sees fit, most of the time not at all — which was a bit hard to square with the rigid demands of the fragrance industry. But they finally wrapped the project in a year and a half, and the result is a rather conventionally feminine fragrance.
Alaïa was adamant that the scent exude a long–lasting freshness. Indeed, the starting point was childhood memories of his grandmother in Tunisia splashing water against scorching-hot walls. Salamagne tried to recreate the sensation by opening the eau de parfum (also available as a body lotion and shower gel) with pink pepper, before revealing peony and freesia heart notes, and ending with musk. The bottle, created by Martin Skezely, reproduces Alaïa’s signature cut-out pattern that first appeared on a belt in 1992, while the cap resembles a spool of golden thread.
Alaïa might be a father figure to the hallowed group of original supermodels of the early nineties, but they were a no-show in the advertising image, shot by Roversi. Instead, he brought back the wonderful Guinevere Van Seenus, an icon of the post-supermodel era.
Alaïa Paris eau de parfum, at the Azzedine Alaïa store in Paris starting June 2015, followed by select stores worldwide
Philip Treacy is lending the transformational power of his extraordinary hats to a new make-up range for MAC Cosmetics.
Launching globally on April 11, the line contains three color palettes, each inspired by a particular Treacy hat. 'Metallic' is inspired by a silver Art Deco headpiece, 'colorful' by a feathered pink headpiece, and 'gothic' by a black-lace face mask. (The three hats are also available for purchase.) The resulting products include three lipsticks, two highlighter powders, two eyeshadows, three eyeliners, and a mascara, as well as two brushes.
MAC Philip Treacy, $16-$35, available at MAC stores and online
With a blockbuster as blockbuster-y as Savage Beauty at the V&A, it stands to reason there are going to be some satellite shows, too. Why not capitalize on the public's piqued interest in all things Alexander McQueen? First came Tate Britain's display of Nick Waplington's behind-the-scenes photos of the designer's penultimate collection. Now comes Warpaint, an exhibit focusing on McQueen's fantastical make-up concepts at the London College of Fashion. After all, the clown faces, runny mascara, bleached eyebrows, and geometric prosthetic cheekbones were just as planned-out as the outfits.
Curated by Polona Dolzan, the exhibit of 22 make-up looks aims to decipher McQueen's beauty inspirations, as realized by the make-up artists in McQueen's coterie, who included Peter Philips, Val Garland, Topolino, and Sharon Dowsett. In descending order of extremeness, the exhibit's themes are: Amplified, Deviated, and Stripped. And, as we're living in the Digital Age, the college has also tapped into the technological prowess of the creative studio Holition to develop an app that lets visitors try on a few looks.
Warpaint: Alexander McQueen and Make-Up, April 30 - August 7, 2015, LCA's Fashion Space Gallery, 20 John Princes Street, London